How to fold your pocket square: simple folds for timeless style

A pocket square is one of the easiest ways to elevate a suit or blazer and still look effortlessly stylish. It adds personality, color and a touch of nonchalant elegance, especially when you are not wearing a tie. Learning a few classic pocket square folds lets you change the mood of your outfit in seconds, from formal to relaxed, using the same Pennata silk square.

Why the pocket square matters

A well‑chosen pocket handkerchief frames the lapel line, draws the eye toward your face and tells a subtle story about your taste. With a single accessory you can echo the colors of your tie, contrast the shade of your suit or introduce a new tone that brings the whole look together. Once you know how to fold it, a pocket square becomes the most versatile detail in your wardrobe.

The classic square fold (flat fold)

The square fold – sometimes called the presidential or flat fold – is clean, minimal and ideal for business or formal occasions.

How to fold it

1. Lay the pocket square flat and fold it in half to form a rectangle, then again to form a neat square.

2. Fold the square along the diagonal so you obtain a triangle.

3. Bring the two long corners of the triangle toward the center so you create a smaller, almost rectangular shape.

4. Tuck the pointed end inside, leaving a straight, smooth edge at the top.

5. Place it in the breast pocket so that only a slim horizontal band of silk is visible, and make sure the bottom of the fabric touches the base of the pocket so it does not slip down.

This fold works especially well with crisp silk or linen pocket squares and structured jackets.

The one‑point fold

The one‑point fold adds a little more character while remaining refined and appropriate for the office.

How to fold it

1. Fold the pocket square in half twice to form a square.

2. Turn it so a corner points up; fold along the diagonal to create a triangle.

3. Fold the two long sides of the triangle in toward the center, forming a slimmer triangle.

4. Tuck the straight edge into the pocket, leaving the single point visible above the lapel.

Choose this fold when you want a subtle peak of pattern or color to break the formality of a dark suit.

The two‑point fold

The two‑point fold has a sharper, more architectural look – perfect for patterned silk pocket squares like Pennata’s.

How to fold it

1. Fold the pocket square in half to create a square.

2. Place it on the table like a diamond, with one corner pointing up and one down.

3. Fold the bottom corner up so it sits slightly to the side of the top corner, creating two visible “peaks”.

4. Fold the left and right sides inward toward the center to form a narrow shape.

5. Insert the straight edge into the pocket, making sure both points are visible and the bottom of the fabric reaches the base of the pocket.

The asymmetry between the two points keeps the look elegant but dynamic.

The puff fold

Soft and relaxed, the puff fold is ideal for silk pocket squares and for more casual tailoring, or when you leave the tie at home.

How to fold it

1. Fold the square in half, then in half again, and lay it flat.

2. Pinch the fabric at the center and lift it up so the rest of the square hangs down.

3. With your other hand, gently gather the hanging fabric together.

4. Tuck the gathered end into the pocket, leaving the rounded, puffed top visible.

This fold lets the colors and patterns of the silk blend into one another, giving a softer feel than sharp points.

The reverse puff

The reverse puff uses the same technique as the standard puff but shows the tips of the square instead of the rounded top, creating a more casual and expressive effect.

How to fold it

1. Create a puff as above, pinching the center of the square and letting the corners hang.

2. Instead of tucking the corners into the pocket, reverse the orientation: place the gathered center inside and leave the pointed edges flowing out.

3. Adjust the volume so it looks intentional but not too exaggerated.

This fold is perfect with textured jackets, weekend tailoring and bolder patterns.

Experiment with folds and fabrics

The best way to find your signature look is to experiment. Try the same Pennata silk pocket square in a flat fold with a dark business suit, then in a puff fold with a soft blazer. Notice how the mood of the outfit changes.

Rotate between square, one‑point, two‑point and puff folds depending on the occasion, and do not be afraid to mix fabrics – silk for shine, wool or silk‑wool for a more matte, understated effect. With a few simple folds, your pocket square becomes a small but powerful tool to express who you are every day.