Easy tips on pocket squares

A pocket square is one of the most effortless ways to bring character, color and depth to a jacket. It works beautifully with or without a tie and, when chosen well, becomes a quiet signature of style. Here are some simple guidelines to help you wear your pocket squares with ease and confidence.

Embrace an easy fold

Perfection is not the goal. Even if you enjoy the clean look of a straight edge, avoid spending too much time trying to make every line razor sharp. Fold the square loosely, place it in the pocket and let the fabric find its own shape. A slightly relaxed finish feels more natural, more modern and more personal than a rigid, over‑constructed fold.

The very formal “TV fold” – a thin, crisp white line at the top of the pocket – can look stiff unless you have a valet pressing it for you every morning. For most occasions, a softer fold is more flattering and much easier to maintain throughout the day.

When you are not wearing a tie

If you choose to go tieless, think of the pocket square as you would think of a tie. It becomes the focal point of the upper body, so its color and pattern should complement your suit or jacket.

You do not need loud or bright tones to make a statement. Deep blues, earth tones, greens and muted prints can be just as expressive, and they pair beautifully with a wide range of tailoring. The key is harmony: choose colors that echo or gently contrast the tones of your suit and shirt, rather than compete with them.

When you are wearing a tie

The pocket square should not be an exact copy of the tie. Matching the two perfectly can make the look feel flat and overly coordinated. Instead, let the pocket square pick up a secondary color from your tie, shirt or suit, or introduce a shade that ties all the elements together.

For example, a patterned tie that includes a touch of gold or sky blue can be paired with a pocket square that highlights that same accent, even if the base color is different. The result is a refined, layered palette rather than a uniform block of color.

Keep it in place

To avoid your pocket square disappearing into the pocket during the day, make sure part of the fabric touches the bottom of the pocket. An easy method: loosely fold or “crumple” the square, push it all the way down, then gently pull it up until you see the amount you want at the top.

This “lazy fold” not only keeps the square anchored but also creates a soft, natural volume that works particularly well with silk and wool.

Choose quality construction

The finishing of a pocket square makes a visible difference. Look for edges that are hand‑rolled: the fabric is turned outward and secured with small, evenly spaced stitches. If you see a long, straight seam of thread holding the edge, it is likely machine‑finished and will lie flatter and less sculpturally in the pocket.

Size matters as well. A slightly larger square gives you the freedom to experiment with different folds and ensures the fabric fills the pocket properly, especially with deeper breast pockets on tailored jackets.

Explore different fabrics

Silk is a classic choice, but it is not the only one. Silk can be quite shiny, which is perfect for eveningwear and more formal suits, yet sometimes too bright for very relaxed or textured outfits.

Wool and silk‑wool blends soften that shine and add a subtle, matte richness that works beautifully with flannel, tweed and other winter cloths. A wool pocket square can also bring balance to a business suit: it takes down the gloss and gives the whole look a more thoughtful, tailored character.

Linen, on the other hand, offers crispness and is ideal in white or soft tones for a sharper, summer feel.

Used thoughtfully, a pocket square is more than an accessory: it is a small canvas where color, texture and personality meet. Choose good fabric, trust an easy fold and let the square speak quietly for you.